Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Adventures in Dining | July 2000

Adventures in Dining
By Jessica Ferracane

Delectable Distractions

You may intend to catch the sunset from a table at I'o in Lahaina, but you'll probably get distracted by the alluring cuisine

I've lived in Hawai'i nearly 20 years and have never seen the green flash that sometimes sizzles across the horizon as the sun disappears into the ocean. I was lamenting this woeful fact to my boyfriend, Steve, as we dined at what could be the best place to watch the sunset - I'o restaurant in Lahaina, Maui.

Just steps from Lahaina Harbor on Front Street, I'o (pronounced EE-oh) - is owned by celebrated Maui chef James McDonald. McDonald is a graduate of the Maui Community College culinary arts program, who trained in Switzerland and several fine hotels. He made his mark at Pacific'o, an award-winning restaurant next door to I'o.We arrived early, not wanting to miss the sunset. I'o is the kind of restaurant you'll want to ease into. Set into the walls are elegant, three-dimensional glass windows etched with marine life that give off an appearance of finely carved ice. The bar, made from a curving piece of hand-poured concrete and painted sea green, has a reputation for excellent martinis. I sipped a Spicetini, made with Absolut Peppar, jalape?o juice, a wisp of vermouth and a jalape?o-stuffed olive. It tasted like a Bloody Mary without all that pesky tomato juice.

We proceeded to our table outside, just as the sun drifted down between Lana'i and Moloka'i.

If the green flash flashed, I missed it. I was busy slurping the tender meat off the Cowboy Ribs, a sizable appetizer of grilled babyback ribs glazed with hoisin sauce and topped with a green apple confit. I'o's menu suggests a particular glass of wine or a special martini to complement each food item. I chose the Morgan malvasia bianca, a fruity (but not sweet) white wine big enough to complement hearty flavors like barbecued ribs without overpowering the palate. Its finish is smooth, and there's an essence of lychee. I looked up to see the sunset, but was easily distracted by the wonderful wine and the salad course.

I'm a fan of fresh greens, and the Hana Hou (one more time) salad at I'o is one of the best salads I've ever tasted. It features fresh, crunchy pohole fern shoots - which McDonald calls "the Hawaiian asparagus" - and ripe papaya, both hand-picked from the Hana rain forest. A light drizzling of roasted garlic pesto is used as dressing. Steve ordered the Arugula Walnut Salad with red onion, feta cheese, mandarin orange and finished with a tarragon dressing. Trading plates back and forth, trying to decide which salad we liked better, we missed the final moment of sunset, and any possibility of spotting a green flash.

With Lahaina Harbor's famous fishing fleet so close, we didn't want to miss out on the fresh fish. At I'o, you get fresh local fish like you've never had it before. The server suggested we try his personal favorite, the foie gras-encrusted mahimahi. I wasn't sure that duck liver would go well with a subtle fish like mahi, but it was outstanding. The foie gras lent a rich creaminess to the mahi without taking anything away from the fish. Beneath the entree was a bed of wasabi-laced mashed potatoes and a Hana vegetable salad. The sauce was simple: a tropical fruit coulis with balsamic vinegar reduction.

For the main course, I followed the suggestion on the menu and had a glass of the Caymus Conundrum, a decadent white wine our server referred to as the "Frankenstein" of wines because it's made from five different varietals. It went splendidly with the mahi. Steve had the chef's special, a thick filet of "coral-crusted" ono with a hazelnut macadamia beurre blanc over jasmine rice, served with a heart-of-palm salad. The ono's delectable crust was made from panko bread crumbs, hanaebi shrimp powder, rice noodles and nori (seaweed). If you're fished out, there's also lamb, steak and tofu on the menu.

The sun was long gone by the time we finished, but the propane torches and the tiny white lights woven around a lone plumeria tree provided just enough light. The surf thundered onto the reef, and we did not want to leave quite yet. We were stuffed to the gills, but managed coffee and a caramel creme brulee, which was served in a hollowed-out pineapple ring with tropical fruit salsa. The Puna goat cheese ice cream with caramelized pineapple and coconut is delicious and tastes like cheesecake ice cream.

I'o offers a sumptuous dining experience, enhanced by an unbeatable view and a very romantic setting. You won't be sorry if you miss the green flash.

I'o, 505 Front St., Lahaina, Maui, 808-661-8422. Dinner nightly 5:30-10 p.m. Free parking, major credit cards, reservations suggested.

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